How to Repair Wheel Curb Rash and Scratches
Restore scuffed, scratched alloy wheels using metal putty, progressive wet-sanding, primer, and color-matched paint for a factory-smooth finish.
- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
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- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Sanding block
- ✓ Spray trigger handle
- ✓ Microfiber towels
- ✓ Plastic scraper or putty knife
- ✓ Drop cloth
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Assorted wet/dry sandpaper (80, 220, 400, 800-grit)
- ✓ Metal-reinforced epoxy putty or metal filler
- ✓ Isopropyl alcohol or wax and grease remover
- ✓ Masking tape and index cards
- ✓ Automotive filler primer spray
- ✓ Color-matched wheel paint and clear coat spray
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Work in a well-ventilated area outdoors or in an open garage to avoid breathing toxic paint and solvent vapors.
- • Wear an N95 or respirator mask and safety glasses when sanding metal burrs and spraying automotive paints.
- • Ensure the wheel is stationary and stable on a flat work surface before applying sanding pressure.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (7 Steps)
Clean and Degrease the Wheel Lip
Wash the entire wheel thoroughly to remove all brake dust, tar, and road grime. Wipe the curb-rashed areas with isopropyl alcohol or wax and grease remover using a microfiber towel until the surface is bone-dry and residue-free.
- • The damaged rim edge is matte and completely free of black brake dust and oily sheen.
- • Microfiber towel comes away clean when wiped along the repaired area.
- • Leaving residual grease or tire shine on the rim, which prevents filler and paint from bonding.
File and Sand Down Sharp Burrs
Use 80-grit sandpaper wrapped around a small block to sand away raised, jagged aluminum burrs along the curb rash. Sand in directional strokes following the curve of the rim until all jagged edges are leveled flat with the original wheel contour.
- • No jagged or protruding metal spikes catch light along the rim edge.
- • Scuffed metal profile matches the natural circular curvature of the wheel rim.
- • Sanding a deep flat spot into the rim instead of maintaining its rounded radius.
Fill Deep Gouges with Metal Putty
Knead two-part metal epoxy putty or mix metal body filler until it reaches a uniform color. Press the putty firmly into the deep scratches and gouges, smoothing it with a putty knife slightly higher than the rim surface to allow for sanding.
- • All deep gouges and curb bites are fully packed with putty.
- • Putty stands roughly 0.5 mm to 1 mm proud of the surrounding wheel surface.
- • Leaving the filler below flush, requiring a second patch layer later.
- • Taking too long to apply putty after mixing, causing it to tear and lump.
Sand the Filler Flush and Smooth
Once cured (typically 15 to 30 minutes), sand the filler with 220-grit paper until it is nearly flush with the wheel. Transition to wet 400-grit and then 800-grit sandpaper, sanding with light pressure until your fingertips feel zero transition between the filler and the factory alloy.
- • The filler merges seamlessly into the metal with no visible ridge or seam line.
- • Sanded surface feels completely flat and continuous under bare fingertips.
- • Sanding without a block, which dishes out the softer filler faster than the hard aluminum.
Mask the Tire Bead and Valve Stem
Slide index cards or playing cards under the rim edge overlapping in a fan pattern around the tire sidewall. Wrap the valve stem with masking tape and mask off the inner barrel and wheel center cap with tape and drop cloth.
- • A continuous collar of overlapping cards blocks all overspray to the rubber tire.
- • Valve stem is fully wrapped in blue or yellow painter's tape.
- • Leaving gaps between cards that let paint spray directly onto black tire rubber.
Apply Primer and Sand Smooth
Spray 2 to 3 light, sweeping coats of automotive filler primer over the repaired area from 8 to 10 inches away, waiting 5 minutes between coats. Once dry, wet-sand the primer lightly with 800-grit sandpaper to remove texture and wipe dry.
- • An even, matte-gray primer coat covers all exposed metal and putty without drips or runs.
- • Sanded primer looks satiny smooth with no rough 'orange peel' texture.
- • Spraying one heavy, wet coat that runs and drips down the rim.
Spray Base Color and Clear Coat
Apply 2 to 3 light coats of color-matched wheel paint, allowing 10 minutes dry time between coats until full opacity is achieved. Finish with 2 wet coats of gloss clear coat, overlapping passes by 50% for maximum shine and protection.
- • Wheel color is completely uniform with zero bare spots or primer shadow showing through.
- • Clear coat forms a smooth, glossy, mirror-like reflection matching untouched factory spokes.
- • Spraying clear coat too far away, creating a dusty, matte, dry-spray texture.
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by ChrisFix — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Index cards for masking? Playing cards or painter's tape tucked into the tire bead
- No Metal-reinforced epoxy putty? Polyester automotive body filler (Bondo) for shallow scratches