How to Install an Aftermarket Exhaust System
Learn how to safely remove an old factory exhaust and install a new aftermarket cat-back system with proper hanger placement, flange sealing, and tip alignment.
This guide shows how to install an aftermarket exhaust system in 2 to 4 hours. Start with lift vehicle and soak rusted fasteners; follow the safety notes and step checkpoints below.
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- Read the tools, materials, safety notes, and steps below for free.
- Tap See 20-second demo if you want to understand it first.
- Tap Start Camera Coach when you want hands-free help, or Voice-only if you do not want to use the camera.
- Allow camera and microphone. Point your phone at the work; the coach watches your progress and tells you the next step.
🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Hydraulic floor jack and 4 jack stands
- ✓ Ratchet and metric socket set
- ✓ Exhaust hanger removal pliers
- ✓ Torque wrench
- ✓ Steel wire brush
- ✓ Breaker bar
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Aftermarket cat-back exhaust kit
- ✓ Penetrating oil (e.g., PB Blaster or Kroil)
- ✓ New exhaust flange gaskets
- ✓ High-temperature anti-seize compound
- ✓ Soapy water spray
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Ensure vehicle exhaust is completely cold before starting work to prevent severe burns.
- • Verify the car is securely settled on four rated jack stands on a flat concrete surface with wheels chocked.
- • Wear safety glasses and work gloves to protect eyes from falling rust scale and hands from sharp metal edges.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (6 Steps)
Lift Vehicle and Soak Rusted Fasteners
Safely elevate the car on four jack stands to ensure level clearance beneath the undercarriage. Generously spray all exhaust flange bolts, nuts, and rubber hanger prongs with penetrating oil. Allow the chemical penetrant to soak into the threads for at least 15 minutes before applying wrench torque.
- • Car is level and stable on four sturdy jack stand points.
- • Exhaust flange nuts and rubber hangers visibly wet with penetrating oil.
- • Working on a car supported only by a hydraulic jack without stands.
- • Attempting to break rusted nuts loose dry without soaking in penetrant.
Unbolt Flanges and Drop Rear Sections
Use a breaker bar and six-point socket to loosen and remove the flange bolts connecting the catalytic converter to the mid-pipe or muffler assembly. Place a jack stand or cardboard box directly beneath the heavy muffler to support its weight once unbolted. Keep track of hardware orientation and discard old crushed gaskets.
- • Flange hardware completely separated and removed.
- • Exhaust pipe supported mechanically rather than dangling by rubber hangers.
- • Using 12-point sockets on rusted metric hardware, causing rounded bolt heads.
- • Allowing heavy piping to drop freely and bend oxygen sensor wires or exhaust hangers.
Release Rubber Isolator Hangers
Spray soapy water into the rubber exhaust hanger bushings to reduce sliding friction. Use exhaust hanger removal pliers or a pry bar to push the metal mounting prongs through the rubber grommets. Carefully slide the entire stock exhaust assembly out from underneath the vehicle.
- • All metal prongs slipped completely out of rubber isolators.
- • Factory exhaust completely removed and set aside clear of the workspace.
- • Prying on dry rubber bushings without lubricant, tearing the rubber isolators.
- • Slashing rubber hangers with a utility knife instead of sliding the prongs out.
Clean Mating Flanges and Install Gaskets
Scrape and scrub the catalytic converter mating flange with a wire brush to eliminate all carbon buildup, rust flakes, and residual gasket material. Wipe the mating surface clean to bare metal, then position the new exhaust gasket over the mounting studs. Coat the threads of all new hardware with high-temperature anti-seize compound.
- • Mating flange surface is flat, shiny, and free of old gasket debris.
- • Fresh gasket properly aligned across the pipe opening and bolt holes.
- • Reusing an old, crushed multi-layer steel gasket on the new system.
- • Installing new gaskets over dirty, pitted rust ridges that prevent a leak-free seal.
Hang New Piping and Assemble Slip Joints
Hang the new mid-pipe and muffler sections into the vehicle's rubber isolators starting from front to back. Slide intermediate slip-fit joints together, sliding clamp bands loosely over each connection without tightening. Thread the flange bolts into the converter connection finger-tight to hold the system in place while leaving room for adjustment.
- • All exhaust hangers engaged fully through rubber grommets.
- • Pipes connected loosely with slip clamps in place but not torqued down.
- • Torquing down the front flange tight before the rear pipes and muffler are aligned in the hangers.
- • Forgetting to slide exhaust band clamps onto the slip joint before joining pipes.
Align Tips, Torque Clamps, and Inspect Clearances
Adjust the muffler positioning until the exhaust tips sit centered inside the bumper cutouts with equal clearance on all sides. Tighten the forward flange bolts evenly across the gasket, then torque all band clamps and flange fasteners to manufacturer torque specs. Check along the entire pipe run to ensure at least 1 inch of clearance from heat shields, brake lines, and the driveshaft.
- • Exhaust tips perfectly centered and level in bumper relief pockets.
- • All clamp and flange nuts fully torqued with no visible gaps or uneven clamping.
- • Tightening clamps while the tips are twisted crooked against the bumper plastic.
- • Leaving pipes touching heat shields, resulting in loud underbody vibrations and rattles.
Credit: inspired by an original tutorial by ChrisFix — watch the original on YouTube.
Don’t have everything?
- No Exhaust hanger removal pliers? Large channel-lock pliers combined with soapy water and a flat pry bar
- No Breaker bar? Long-handled 1/2-inch drive ratchet