How to Change Your Car's Oil
Safely elevate vehicle on jack stands, drain old motor oil, replace the crush washer and filter, refill with fresh oil, verify level, and recycle fluid.
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🧰 Required Tools & Equipment
- ✓ Hydraulic floor jack
- ✓ Jack stands (pair, rated for vehicle curb weight)
- ✓ Wheel chocks
- ✓ Socket wrench and drain plug socket
- ✓ Oil filter wrench or strap wrench
- ✓ Torque wrench (ft-lbs/Nm)
- ✓ Oil drain pan with pour spout
- ✓ Clean automotive funnel
- ✓ Safety glasses and heavy nitrile gloves
📦 Materials & Supplies
- ✓ Fresh engine oil (viscosity and volume specified in vehicle manual)
- ✓ New replacement oil filter matching engine model
- ✓ New aluminum or copper drain plug crush washer
- ✓ Shop towels or lint-free rags
⚠️ Safety Checkpoints & Warnings
- • Never place any part of your body under a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic jack; always lower onto locking mechanical jack stands.
- • Engine block must be warm to the touch, not scalding hot; running the engine for 3 to 5 minutes warms oil for smooth flow without risk of thermal burns.
- • Place wheel chocks firmly against both sides of the tires remaining on the ground before operating the jack.
- • Wear safety glasses throughout the entire process to prevent hot oil droplets and road debris from entering the eyes.
📋 Step-by-Step Guide (8 Steps)
Warm Engine and Secure the Vehicle
Park the vehicle on a completely flat, level concrete surface and engage the parking brake firmly. Start the engine and let it idle for 3 to 5 minutes so the oil thins out and suspends contaminants, then shut the engine off. Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the rear wheels if lifting the front of the vehicle. Pop the hood release latch and open the hood to access the top of the engine.
- • Vehicle is parked on level concrete with emergency brake engaged.
- • Wheel chocks sit flush against tread on both sides of the rear tires.
- • Engine is off and hood is fully propped open.
- • Working on a sloped driveway, which destabilizes jack stands.
- • Running the engine until fully up to operating temperature, creating scalding 200°F+ oil.
Elevate Vehicle onto Jack Stands
Locate the front central jacking point or pinch welds specified in your owner's manual. Raise the front of the vehicle with the hydraulic floor jack until high enough to slide jack stands beneath the reinforced frame rails or pinch welds. Position the jack stands at equal height settings on both sides. Slowly lower the hydraulic jack until the vehicle weight rests fully and squarely on the stands. Vigorously push the vehicle bumper from the front and sides to ensure it is rock-solid before getting underneath.
- • Jack stands are locked in position under factory lift points on solid frame.
- • Floor jack is lowered slightly so full load is supported by mechanical stands.
- • Vehicle exhibits zero sway or movement when pushed firmly on the fender.
- • Leaving the hydraulic floor jack holding the car's weight without jack stands.
- • Placing jack stands under floorboards, suspension arms, or oil pan rather than reinforced frame points.
Drain Used Engine Oil
Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine valve cover to vent the crankcase for faster draining. Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves, then slide beneath the engine with your socket wrench and oil drain pan. Position the drain pan slightly behind the drain plug trajectory, as oil will shoot outward in an arc. Loosen the drain plug counterclockwise with the socket wrench, then spin the final threads by hand while pushing inward to prevent leaking until the final thread disengages. Allow the oil to drain completely until it slows to an occasional, thin drip.
- • Engine oil filler cap is resting visibly on the battery or cowl.
- • Oil stream is discharging cleanly into the center of the drain pan.
- • Oil flow has diminished from a steady stream to individual, intermittent drips.
- • Dropping the drain plug into the bottom of the hot oil pan.
- • Accidentally draining the automatic transmission pan instead of the engine oil pan.
Remove Old Filter and Prep New Filter
Move the drain pan directly under the oil filter housing. Use an oil filter wrench to loosen the filter counterclockwise until it turns freely by hand, then spin it off slowly while keeping it vertical to prevent dumping residual oil. Clean the filter mating surface on the engine block with a clean rag, visually confirming the old rubber O-ring gasket came off with the old filter. Dip a clean, gloved fingertip into fresh motor oil and coat the rubber gasket of the new oil filter with a smooth film. Screw the new filter on by hand until the gasket contacts the metal mounting base, then tighten an additional 3/4 to 1 full turn by hand only.
- • Engine block filter mounting plate is bare, shiny, and free of old rubber gasket material.
- • New filter gasket has a continuous wet sheen of fresh oil.
- • New filter is securely hand-tightened onto the mounting stud.
- • Double-gasketing (leaving the old O-ring stuck to the engine block under the new filter), causing catastrophic high-pressure oil blowout.
- • Overtightening the new filter with a metal wrench, which crushes the internal threads and tears the rubber gasket.
Install New Crush Washer and Torque Drain Plug
Inspect the removed drain plug and pull off the old, flattened crush washer. Slide a brand new aluminum or copper crush washer onto the drain plug threads. Wipe the drain plug hole threads and sealing face on the oil pan clean of oil and grit using a lint-free shop towel. Thread the drain plug into the oil pan by hand for at least 3 to 4 full revolutions to guarantee it is not cross-threading. Attach your socket to a torque wrench set to your vehicle's factory specification (typically 20 to 30 ft-lbs) and tighten the plug until the wrench clicks once.
- • New, uncompressed crush washer is seated between the bolt head and pan.
- • Drain plug sits completely flush against the oil pan surface.
- • Torque wrench has clicked at the exact manufacturer-specified torque value.
- • Reusing an old, crushed washer, which leads to slow, persistent oil leaks.
- • Using an impact wrench or over-tightening with a long ratchet, stripping the delicate aluminum threads of the oil pan.
Fill Engine with Fresh Oil
Remove the oil drain pan and all tools from under the car. Place a clean, dry funnel into the engine oil fill hole on top of the valve cover. Check your owner's manual for the exact specified capacity and pour in 0.5 quarts LESS than total volume to avoid accidental overfilling. Pour smoothly with the oil bottle held sideways to allow air to vent into the bottle, preventing chugging and splashing. Remove the funnel, wipe the fill neck, and securely reinstall the oil filler cap.
- • Funnel is seated securely without wobble inside the oil filler neck.
- • Specified volume of amber, clear fresh oil is poured into the engine.
- • Oil filler cap is clicked or screwed tight onto the valve cover.
- • Pouring oil before reinstalling the drain plug underneath.
- • Using incorrect oil viscosity (e.g., pouring 10W-40 into an engine requiring 0W-20).
Lower Vehicle, Run Engine, and Check Dipstick Level
Raise the vehicle slightly with the hydraulic floor jack, remove both jack stands, and slowly lower the car back down to flat ground. Start the engine and let it idle for 30 to 45 seconds while observing the dashboard oil pressure warning light; it should turn off within 3 seconds. Look underneath the vehicle with a flashlight to verify there are no active drips at the drain plug or filter. Shut the engine off and wait 3 minutes for oil to settle into the pan. Pull out the engine oil dipstick, wipe it clean with a rag, reinsert it fully until seated, pull it out again, and confirm the wet line falls squarely between the 'MIN' and 'MAX' (or crosshatched) marks, adding small splashes if needed.
- • Dashboard oil pressure warning light extinguishes within 3 seconds of engine ignition.
- • Dry concrete underneath drain plug and filter after 45 seconds of engine run time.
- • Oil level on dipstick blade rests exactly between the upper and lower indicator holes.
- • Reading the dipstick while the car is still tilted on jack stands, resulting in an inaccurate reading.
- • Ignoring a flashing oil pressure light on the dash after starting.
Transfer and Legally Dispose of Used Oil
Pour the used motor oil from the drain pan into the empty fresh oil bottle or a dedicated heavy-duty sealable plastic container using your funnel. Place the used oil filter open-side down in the drain pan for 24 hours to drain residual oil, then wrap it in plastic. Wipe the exterior of the sealed jugs and store them upright in your vehicle trunk. Transport the used oil and drained filter to an automotive parts store, quick-lube shop, or municipal hazardous waste facility for legal recycling.
- • All drained oil is sealed inside leak-proof jugs with caps fully tightened.
- • Drain pan is wiped dry and clean with shop towels.
- • Used oil jugs and filter are loaded for drop-off at a certified recycling location.
- • Pouring used motor oil into storm drains, household trash, or onto the ground, which is illegal and causes massive environmental contamination.
- • Mixing used motor oil with brake fluid, antifreeze, or gasoline, which prevents certified recycling centers from accepting it.
Don’t have everything?
- No Oil filter wrench? Heavy-duty rubber strap wrench or oil filter pliers wrapped with a shop towel for grip
- No Hydraulic floor jack and jack stands? Solid steel or heavy-duty composite drive-on car ramps with integrated wheel chocks on level concrete
- No Dedicated oil funnel? Top half of a clean, dry plastic 2-liter bottle cut with shears (must be completely free of moisture and dirt)